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We've all heard that phrase before haven't we? So often we hear it mentioned when someone is discussing art they enjoy and the artist has been branded "problematic." In a world where free speech has been magnified by the internet, the freedom to enjoy things at face value seems to have vanished. Before we can comment on our interest in music, movies, fashion, or art, we must first check to see if the creator fits into our peer's description of moral accountability. I stress "our peer's description" because left to ourselves without outside judgement how often would we analyze our own likes and dislikes?


Yet the question remains; can we truly separate the art from the artist? If the answer is no, at what point of the artist's corruption does their art become morally unconsumable? No matter what side of the debate you lean towards, or where you draw the the line, this is a divisive subject and there will be always be people who disagree. Even when I first started researching this topic some of the first articles I came across made claims both that the separation was needed, and that truly separating the art was impossible.

Does the separation of art from artist decontextualize their work and leave it void of any depth or meaning? Perhaps, or as so often the case, this to could depend greatly on piece by piece intention and translation. Is the song or painting referencing the controversy surrounding the artist? Does their latest fashion show encourage unethical consumption? It's pieces like this that are inseparable not just from the artist's controversy, but it's own as well.


The ability to disregard the entirety of an artist's life's work is further complicated by their own influence. Andy Warhol comes to mind as an example who's influence across several different fields can't be denied, much less disregarded. Putting your feelings on his personal beliefs and statements aside, his mark on the worlds of pop art, film, and even fashion have become historically significant. To erase this history because you disagree with the views of the artist would decontextualize most post-modern art being created today.

I have found a large amount of cancel culture surrounds around the idea of an artist creating moral controversy, and not about whether or not the art itself reflects that controversy or creates it's own.


After the recent death of Bridget Bardot there was a considerable amount of discussion surrounding how ethical it is to morn or celebrate the life she lead. Bardot was a fashion icon, sex symbol, and all around "it girl" in the 1960's, known for her big bouffant hair as well as for her work as an animal rights activist. However in the more recent years leading up to her death, she was noted for being convicted on five* separate accounts for inciting racial hatred. A mark that certainly overshadows her more charitable features.

*I have seen posts attributing her to six convictions, however I have only been able to confirm five through my own research.

Naturally the internet had lots of hateful things to add to the discourse. Some people sided with her, adding further hurtful comments on race, religion and political views. Others made equally hateful accusations against her, broadening the blame to anyone whose so much as saved a photo of the late actress to a Pinterest board labeled "Hair."


Now that some time has passed, and the rage of anyone with access to a keyboard has died down, the argument has again boiled down to the same question: Can we separate the art from the artist? Bardot's work, both as a model and film star leave behind a legacy of 1960's pop culture, one that can't easily be ignored. So how are we to interact with the piece of history that has been left to us?

As I've stated before, I believe art can be viewed separately from the artist as long as the art is taken in context of itself. I do not view Bardot as a suitable role model, however, I do have her picture saved on a Pinterest board labeled "Hair." This is not my way of condoning or disregarding her comments or views, but maybe my Pinterest board wasn't meant to be political.


Where we so often ask if the artist is problematic, do we stop to consider what message the art itself is sending? We listen to songs about topics we would never feel comfortable with their writers participating in, we enjoy runway fashions with little to no concern as to whether or not the models gave consent to what they would be made to wear. (Gisele Bündchen who walked topless for Alexander McQueen's S/S 1998 show.) We as a culture are quick to pass judgement with little care for context. We're so eager for our own opinions to be heard we often fail to properly articulate them. Wishing only to be marked with approval by our peers and praised for the work of a critic. Perhaps it's because it is easier to say something negative than it is to remain silent, and the only thing worse than having the agreed upon "wrong opinion" on the internet is holding no real opinion at all.



Thanks for reading, if you've made it this far consider leaving a review!

-Coco Elouise Marie

This may seem like an odd topic of choice from someone whose personal branding is so deeply rooted in the past, and yet perhaps that's why it feels so important to address. Many of us are drawn to concepts and styles from decades that aren't our own. In the world of fashion ideas move in a cycle. The influence of the past is evident because everything is visual and inspiration is widely discussed. Every once in a while some brilliant designer will come up with something that feels especially new. However, more often than not some past decade is removed from its shelf, dusted off and the cycle of trends starts again with Y2K low rise jeans and butterfly halter tops whose inspiration can be traced back to the 1800's. With all of history at our fingertips we are constantly tempted to embrace the comfort of the past when our own future seems uncertain.

That's not to say some of these rediscovered or reimagined designs don't hold charm and allure of their own, or aren't worthwhile of revisiting. Dolce and Gabbana's 2025 Alta Sartoria fashion show gave us an incredible look at historically inspired menswear blended with modern tailoring. (Helped tremendously by their confidence in a bold color pallet.) What resulted was a breathtaking collection that felt both fresh and familiar.

Gucci offered another example of the past effortlessly transcribed into the present with their Spring/Summer 2025 collection which called back the 1960's in a way that made their inspiration obvious without feeling like they were trying to play dress up with vintage clothes. An important distinction for a brand as prominent as Gucci.


Now that I've given credit to fashionable callbacks and admitted myself to being entirely centered on nostalgic fashion, when does this indulgence in the past go to far? It's important to recognize the difference between romanticizing the past and learning from it. Nostalgia feeds of the idea we were better off in the past. While there's nothing wrong with bringing the better parts of the past into the future, sometimes we have to be reminded the only direction we can travel through time is forward. Nostalgic fashion becomes harmful on our mental wellbeing as well as our social outlook when it convinces us there's more to miss in times past than the simplicity of aesthetic.

This is usually when we see big retail brands trying to capitalize on the feelings that come through hindsight. They use algorithms, targeted ads, and the hype from nostalgia obsessed teenagers to create a collective longing for the feeling their product promises. I may sound like I'm making them out to sound intentionally devious, but how harmful can that really be? Anyone whose studied sales knows you can't effectively advertise products without marketing a feeling. Even my own brand is based entirely on the idea of reviving the styles and aesthetics of the 1960's. I recognize this is a grey area and it's difficult to draw an exact line at how much musing on the past is to much.

Which brings me to my next point, the fault of nostalgia lays in intention. Every brand no mater how big or small has a choice of how to market nostalgia. They can use their platform to encourage self expression through callback styles, or they can create longing for a period they claim their product can reproduce. Creating longing is usually used when a company is less concerned with community and than it is with profit. By convincing you that you missed out on how great things used to be they trap you into buying products full of false promises to bring back the feelings of the past. A past not near as spectacular as the glorified version we see in media.


So why bother looking back at all? Ryan Yip stated in his article, "To Be Original" (Fashion Review issue1) "Social Media has corrupted us. (...) It forces us to compare ourselves with what others are glamorously presenting. In short, it makes us feel incomplete and unsatisfied. Within the realm of fashion this takes away the one thing that is most precious to all of us: originality."

Already nostalgia has two factors ready to convince everyone to dive in, the first being uniqueness. Though one can never compare nostalgic styles to originality since it's very definition notes it's been done before, one also wouldn't consider someone dressed for a different time period to be 'mainstream.' Nostalgia brings to the table an odd sort of protective individualism. It's been done before and it was well liked enough to be remembered, but of course by dressing for another time you're bound to stand out in your own. The second factor nostalgia brings forward is community. Like many or any fashion movements, those who commit to an aesthetic are drawn to others who do the same. Thus sparking an online community for people who dress in nearly any decade.


So here we are, comfortably nestled between community and uniqueness, needing only to occasionally be reminded that we truly are better off in the present with the technology that makes so many niche communities possible.


Thanks for reading! If you've made it this far consider leaving a review!

-Coco Elouise Marie

In a world of fast fashion, instant gratification, and profit above everything else, is any form of fashion consumption ethical? We've been over the harmful affects of shopping ever changing trends, and the negative impact of "hauls," but what does a sustainable closet really look like?


Learn to care for what you have.

Basic sewing skills, iron on patches and following the care instructions on our garments should be second nature. That's not to say you should wear all your clothes until they literally fall off your body, but an effort should be made to keep your clothes in good condition. Jeans with holes worn through can be patched or worn as a fashion statement, lose threads can be trimmed and mended before they begin to unravel, and nice clothes can be demoted to work clothes before they're thrown away.


Buy what you need when you need it.

In order to live sustainably you don't have to stop shopping, the idea is to stop over shopping. If you need a new garment there's no reason to deny yourself a purchase, provided it's justifiable. You have an event coming up and don't have the proper attire, or perhaps you simply need new everyday clothes. There is nothing wrong with buying what you need, issues arise when you start buying what you don't need. (Maybe you can justify and new pair of jeans or leggings, but do you really need one in each color?)


"To thine own self be true."

Our clothes get worn more when they represent the wearer. The Christmas sweater my grandmother gave me may sit in my closet unworn even through the holidays, but my fringe leather jacket gets thrown into near-constant outfit rotation the moment the first leaf falls on the ground. So what does this mean for you? While shopping for new additions to your wardrobe, ask yourself if it's something you would wear. My personal rule is before I buy anything new, I have to think of at least three ways I would style the garment I want to buy. Once I've considered what I would wear it with it becomes much more clear to me whether it actually fits my aesthetic or simply looks good in the store.


Where to shop?

The most sustainable option is always second-hand. If you need something new, consider something nearly new. Checking your local thrift shops or vintage shops is a great way to find beautiful clothing and support your local community. Can't find what you're looking for? Online thrift stores such as Vinted, Ebay and Depop can be great options.

No luck shopping second-hand? Support a small business! Many small brands (including my own) prioritize a minimum amount of waste in production and are often very clear about their ideals and practices. Plus, shopping from small brands allows you to directly support the artist/designer/sewist behind the scene. So you know the money you spend is actually improving someone's livelihood, and not filling the pockets of a corporation.


Sustainable living doesn't have to be minimal living.

There's nothing wrong with having a big wardrobe. I'm a maximilist myself, and love nothing more than finding a new piece of fashion history to add to my own wardrobe. How does that work within the sustainable habits we've been discussing? The best of wardrobes are built overtime. I don't buy new clothes every time I leave my house, and I didn't start out with the collection I have. Just as when you collect anything from vinyl records to Pokémon cards you don't buy 500 pieces and call it a day. You buy a little here and there and keep your eyes open for the pieces you really want.


You don't have to be perfect.

Finally, as a last resort I want to add that I won't fault you for buying a new outfit from a fast fashion company if it's something you need. We can't always find the things we're looking for at thrift shops, and not everyone can afford to buy higher quality clothes from small brands. I get it, small brands are expensive. Do I believe the prices are justified? Absolutely! The art of making quality clothes is wildly more complex and expensive than the fast fashion companies would want you to believe. However, I also understand that not everyone can make these purchases at the drop of a hat. It's just important to keep in mind that buying fast fashion should be a last resort.


-Coco Elouise Marie


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